SNES Mini RGB Custom Amp Mod

This page shows how to use a custom RGB Amp to bypass the SNES Mini's internal RGB amp. This method should improve (or fix) the SNES' vertical line issue. If your SNES doesn't have the white line problem, or if you're interested in a slightly easier method, you can check out the original SNES Mini mod I had listed on this site, which just requires some wire and a few resistors.

Also, if you'd like this mod performed for you, you can hire the following services:

Retrofixes SNES Mini RGB Mod - USA

Voultar's SNES Mini RGB Mod - USA

This guide shows instructions using RetroRGB's custom RGB amp. If you'd prefer to build your own, you can follow the DIY guide. Both solutions output the same exact quality signal, so feel free to use whichever fits your needs better: SNES Mini DIY RGB Amp

The SNES Mini puts out the best quality video signal, compared to the other SNES versions (see the SNES Version Compare page for examples). Also, there is only one version of the SNES Mini, which means you don’t have to open it up to find the “best”: All SNES Mini’s output the same quality. A quick note:  A reader emailed me to tell me there are counterfeit SNES Mini's out there.  I've never seen one, but if you're worried about buying a clone, check out this page to make sure you have a real Nintendo-made system.

Tools / Parts Needed:
You'll need a few tools for this mod (more info on the tools can be found in the tools section):

- RetroRGB's Custom Amplifier chip

 

Before beginning the RGB mod, you should determine if you need csync (please read the sync section if you're not sure what csync is). It's not hard to add csync to the multi-out, so if you're unsure if you need it or not, I suggest adding it anyway. Please see the instructions at the bottom of the SNES RGB Cable / csync page, as they'll show exactly what you need to do.

- Open the console and remove the board (pretty much just unscrew everything):

- Prepare the RetroRGB Amp. The bottom of the amp board has no components on it, however I always like to add a piece of non-conductive tape to the bottom, just to be sure. If nothing else, it won't hurt:

- Next, slide the RetroRGB Amp over the multi-out, making sure it slides over all the pins (note the csync cable, which was installed before the mod):

- I've actually seen a few SNES Mini's come from the factory with the two ground pins soldered together. If your system has this, you could either cut the solder in the middle (be really careful not to damage the pins), or use a solder-removing method (de-soldering iron, solder wick, etc):

- Next, solder the following six points on the RetroRGB Amp. You should also add solder to the RGB pads, so they'll be ready for the wire.
As an FYI, it won't hurt anything if you accidentally soldered the other pins, but it's better to just stick with the ones with the arrows:

- Next, locate the following spot on the motherboard:

- Solder thin wire to the following points to get RGB. Make sure the stripped wire isn't too long, as it will stick out the top of the motherboard:

- Cut the wires to length and solder them to the corresponding RGB pads on the RetroRGB Amp. Your installation should now look like this (click for full-size):

- That's it! Re-assemble the console, power on your system and enjoy RGB!!!

Brightness Issues:
I personally find the output of this amp to look fine as-is.  In some situations, I may need to turn the brightness down on my monitor a bit, however it doesn't seem to effect the picture quality.  That being said, different people's applications will have different results.  If you use this amp and find the brightness too high, there is a fix: John (Ultron on the assembler games forums) was nice enough to use a scope to find the exact fix for this console! 

- First, solder 1.1k Ohm resistors to the same places you'd get RGB from the board.

- Then, make sure to solder the RGB wires between the resistors and the board.

- Finally, the other side of all three resistors to ground (click for full-sized):

- I strongly recommend using shrink tubing on each resistor! I used tape to cover the components, but only because it made the above picture easier to see. For your installation it would be much better to shrink tube each one (thanks to John for his pic):

- For beginners, it must seem strange to tie all the video lines to ground, but as long as the video lines are on the motherboard-side of the resistor, it will work to properly adjust the input brightness to the exact level the SNES Mini should be outputting.

A note for SFC Jr owners: I suggest first trying the mod without the brightness-attenuating resistors. I've only personally tested one SFC Jr, but found that using the same resistors as the SNES Mini worked best. I've had other people report that no resistors at all is the best choice and Alex (aka ArcadeTV) said he needed these to get the proper output from his SFC Jr:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MRS25000C7509FRP00/PPC75.0ZCT-ND/595092

If you'd like more detailed, technical information, here's a link to the assembler games thread explaining all the details:

http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?53053-SNES-Mini-RGB-Measurements

That’s it...not too hard of a mod and the picture quality is amazing!!! Check out the difference from an average (non-1CHIP) SNES 1 to a SNES Mini (there are many more pictures on the SNES Version Compare page):

When you're done, feel free to go back to the main SNES page.  If you'd like info on mods for other systems, head to the Getting RGB From Each System page or check out the main page for more retro-awesomeness.