N64 RGB Mod - RetroRGB Amp

Warning:  Before starting this mod, make sure your N64 can be modded for RGB and that this is the correct mod for your system!: http://www.retrorgb.com/n64rgbcompatible.html.  If your system is an NTSC N64 with the proper VDC-NUS chip, you can proceed.  Alternatively, you can just have a modding service do it for you: 

Retrofixes N64 RGB Mod Service

 

This guide shows instructions using RetroRGB's custom RGB amp.  If you'd prefer to build your own, you can follow the DIY guide.  Both solutions output the same exact quality signal, so feel free to use whichever fits your needs better:  N64 RGB Mod - DIY RGB Amp.

You'll need a few tools for this mod (more info on the tools can be found in the tools section):

- RetroRGB's Custom Amplifier chip


- An RGB cable
- Soldering skills! 
- The 4.5mm tool that opens the N64

- Philips head screwdriver
- Soldering iron / solder
- Thin gauge wire


Before beginning the RGB mod, you should determine your sync requirements I find that in almost all cases, simply using an RGB cable that gets sync from luma is the best solution.  If your setup requires csync directly from the console, there's more info at the bottom of the N64 RGB Cable / csync page.


- First, removing the plastic cover, using the 4.5mm game tool.  Then, only unbolt the screws that are circled in the picture below (thanks for the tip Marshall!).  After removing those, the entire metal heat shielding will lift off as one piece:
 

- Once it’s disassembled, look for the following chip.  As described on the page that shows you which N64 systems are RGB-compatible, if it says "VDC-NUS" or "VDC-NUS A" (like pictured below), you should be fine and can proceed with the RGB mod.  If not, it probably won't work and I don't recommend trying, as you could damage your equipment.  That being said, if you have a VDC-NUS, move along to the next step:

- At this point, you have a choice between soldering the RGB points directly to the VDC-NUS chip, or to the corresponding points on the bottom of the motherboard.  Soldering to the bottom of the motherboard will result in a "cleaner" installation, since all the wires will be on the bottom, but either will result in the same signal quality, so I suggest doing whichever you're more comfortable with. 

If you'd like to solder directly to the chip, use pins 17 (Red), 19 (Green) and 21 (Blue).  Then, make sure to run the wires cleanly around the board, so that no wires will be pinched when you re-assemble the metal casing:

If you'd like to solder to the bottom of the motherboard, find the following spot and solder Blue to R10, Green to R9 and Red to R8.  Warning:  Make sure the stripped wire going through the holes is extremely short!!!  If the wire sticks out past the other side of the motherboard, it will actually touch the VDC-NUS chip and possibly hit one of the pins!:

Here's an example of what happens if you feed the RGB cables in too far.  Luckily this person's N64 wasn't permanently damaged and I was able to fix it, but it was shorting pins together and could have potentially ruined the system:

- Next, prepare the RetroRGB Amp.  The bottom of the amp board has no components on it, however I always like to add a piece of non-conductive tape to the bottom, just to be sure.  If nothing else, it won't hurt:

- Then, slide the RetroRGB Amp over the multi-out and solder the following pins.  You can also add solder to the R G B pads, then connect the corresponding RGB wires. 
As an FYI, it won't hurt anything if you accidentally soldered the other pins, but it's better to just stick with the ones with the arrows:

- If you soldered to the points on the bottom, your installation should now look like this (if you soldered to the chip, the wires should be neatly wrapped around the side of the board):

- Start replacing all the metal shielding (and if any cables are run along the side, make sure they're not getting pinched).  The RetroRGB Amp fits perfectly around the bottom metal plate, allowing just enough space so the metal isn't touching the board and the wires aren't pinched.  Here's an installation shown with csync attached (it would have looked cleaner to attach csync before installing the RetroRGB amp, but it makes no difference in performance):

- Lastly, bolt everything back in the order you removed it and give it a try (remember, the memory module has to be plugged in, or the N64 won't boot). 

 

Some quick tips:
- If you have any trouble, make sure to go back and check each of your solder points.

- The output brightness is slightly brighter then a stock Nintendo console outputting RGB, but I've never found it to be an issue.  If it's too bright for you, try adding 75 Ohm resistors between the points on the motherboard and the RetroRGB Amp:

- I've seen people just connect the RGB pins to the multi-out.  While techincally it would work on some RGB monitors, it's not the correct signal a display would exepect and it definitely won't work with most equipment.  Here's an example comparing with and without the amp:


Well, that's it!  Feel free to go back to the main N64 page.  If you'd like info on mods for other systems, head to the Getting RGB From Each System page or check out the main page for more retro-awesomeness.